What Features for Your Yetti?

Photo Credit - Bill Lindner Photography

I seen you have a yetti. I’m having one built right now. Anything you did or didn’t do or wanted to do after the fact? It’s going to the finisher in the next couple weeks. Thanks!

Dave D.

Thanks for the note Dave, it’s a good one.  I credit you for doing your homework and asking lots of questions as these are big decisions you want to get right the first time.  I’m actually in the process of trading off last year’s Yetti and ordering a new one as well, so your timing is perfect.  Here’s how I’ll break it down:

Primary Use – I think you have to be really honest with yourself on current use and what your schedule allows.  I know I had planned on camping a bunch with ours, and because of my open-water fishing habit, I did so a bit more sparingly than planned.  Instead, I’m using it more for hunting trips (spring and fall), as well as a few summer camping trips, though my primary use is ice-fishing.  Focus then on maximizing features for the primary use part of your buy.

Doing Again - Here’s the add-ons I’ll be doing again:

• Summer Package – A/C, awning, vent fan in bath, exterior outlet, etc. allow for the best full season use.  I wouldn’t order without.

• Electronics Package – This should be considered standard, great add

• Lighting Package – Ambient interior lighting is really great, and the perimeter light strip helps people who are meeting you on the lake find your Yetti.

• Small Flip-up Table near front door – extra surface is great

• Bunk Ladder – stows great and way safer for the kids

• Rear View Camera System – Really handy in tight quarters, and great for trailering down the road!

• Window Shades – Really great to moderate the amount of light on really bright days

• Spare Tire Mount – Never had to use it, will be happy to have it if I ever do!

Maybe Not - Here’s the add-ons I did last year that I likely won’t be doing again:

• Ramp Door Screen – This is an incredible add-on if you’re doing more camping and taking advantage of it, but I could probably do without.

• Cutting board sink insert – I ended up just doing food prep on a regular cutting board

• Full Bathroom – I didn’t know where to add this one because I’m on the fence still.  A full bathroom with all of the hookups is phenomenal for extended summer use.  We used our facilities about 3 times this past summer and though we were happy to have them, the State Parks where we camped had their own.  It’s not a need, but I can see especially in other campgrounds or when away from civilization this would be great.  We didn’t use them in the winter, and many folks are using a portable toilet in the same space without the provided toilet, shower, sink, etc.  This is something to strongly consider.

Non- Factory Add-Ons - There’s just a ton of great ways to modify your Yetti to any use you can think of – check out this article for some ideas that helped me equip mine!

ASK YOUR DEALER EVERYTHING! - Make SURE to pick the brain of your dealer.  All of my best questions were answered easily because they help people make these decisions (and use the product) themselves a great deal.  My dealer, Casey Boutain of Glacial Lakes Dock - has a direct connection to the Yetti factory and just lives to help people with these questions.  He’s not close in location to me, but has been a great help in selection of a house that fits my family.

Joel 

Best Wheelhouse Camera?

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

John W. asks:

Hey Joel - I saw you got a Yetti last year and am wondering what underwater camera you’d recommend for inside of a permanent. We mainly fish for walleyes on Mille Lacs but sometimes fish for panfish nearby.

Thanks,

John

Thanks for the question John. I’d consider two options, one mobile unit for panfish and another system for the house, but would lean most heavily towards what you do most. That sounds like fishing on Mille Lacs. Fair word of warning, walleyes are notoriously camera-shy, so always be ready to pull the camera if you see fish come near baits but get nervous.

That said, a quality camera for the house is an investment to better fishing no matter where you’re at, regardless of species. Perch aren’t usually worried about the camera, and I know you probably run into them a fair amount out there as well. Not to mention, so often the camera is used just to confirm the presence of fish or ID them, let alone observe the area you’re fishing for rocks, gravel, etc.

The big issue in past years has been camera quality of image, especially at depths like you fish in Mille Lacs. This problem is exacerbated, even in the shallows, when taking a non-HD image, and blowing it up to a big-screen TV as are so popular in todays wheelhouses. Marcum has a new camera called the Quest that I tested all last year and was very impressed by, especially when plugging into the big screen on my Yetti. It’s the first HD camera to my knowledge, that actually allows an HD image to be ported to your TV screen, via an HDMI cable. All of that means the clearest and cleanest image I’ve seen from an underwater camera, up on the TV screen - to date.

If you’re less concerned about porting the image to a TV, then I’d opt for mobility and pick from either the Recon 5 or Recon 5+. Both are extremely capable and portable units that will work for panfish outside of the house, just as well as they’ll work inside. The major difference in the 5+ is that it has on screen temp, depth, and direction display, which can be critical components for chasing big panfish, especially in weeds. It also has a DVR to record what you’re seeing if that’s of interest. If you plan on bringing it inside, I’d opt for a mount like this - which will keep it steady and pointed in the right direction for you at all times.

Whether you’re viewing the image on the big screen or natively, there’s some great options out there these days.

Joel

Which Croix Custom Ice (CCI) Rod?

Matt R. asks:

I saw St. Croix released their new CCI rods. I just had a couple of questions in regards to them.

First, as far as for panfish what rod would you recommend for fishing tungsten flys, jigs, smaller spoons, and number three rip n raps. I would also like to be able to see the bite.

The other rod would be for walleyes. This I would be fishing number 4 rip n raps, 1/8 spoons, jigging raps. Which one of the CCI’s would you suggest for this type of fishing. Thanks for your reccomendations! I look forward to hearing back from you! Thanks, Matt Rischette

Appreciate the questions Matt, and I know there’s lots of people that will want to know the same thing. You’ve highlighted a number of techniques for several species. I want to point out that there would likely be a few ways to address these needs, depending on what you want to spend and how much you do each of them.

You may be able to get away with 2-3 rods that are multi-faceted enough to satisfy many different roles, but keep in mind that these rods were designed to address specific situations, and the very best experience may involve getting a rod for each style or bait you’re fishing. I’ll break them up in that scenario to address strong suits for each rod/technique, but ultimately it’s up to you as to how much you fish each tactic and whether or not a rod-per-bait is the right approach for each person.

• Panfish Tungsten flies and Jigs - You indicated you wanted to see the bite, and in that scenario, the Tungsten Tamer (CI28MLXF) is the far away best choice. This rod was crafted to deflect easily enough to detect both “up-hits” and standard bites, while standing up to the weight of today’s tungsten jigs and not overload. More importantly, the backbone of the rod and where in the hookset that power is felt, will make it one of the most popular panfish rods in the lineup.

• Small Spoons - Tony spent alot of time with this rod, and without speaking for him I know he spends a good deal of his winter for perch and panfish with micro spoons. The Micro Spoon Rod (CI28LXF) addresses the popularity of tiny spoons being used for big gills and other panfish, that can often be lighter than the tungsten jigs we’re using. This rod’s power accounts for that and just like the Tungsten Tamer, properly handles the weight of the bait used for each technique.

• #3 Rippin Raps - This bait is a feel bait. Pull it through the water column at even a slight “rip” and you' know what I mean. It would stand to reason that you’d want a feel-rod to pair it with. If you fish the smaller #3 alot, or simply prefer feel over the visual for most of your fishing, the Pan Finesse (CI24LXF) is the right tool to use. Taking a cue from their open water sticks, no one does a true XF action like St. Croix. You’ll see that same lightning fast deflection in this feel-rod, and specifically for this bait, you want to know the nuance of this bait’s action at all times. Most people overwork these baits, as they strive to feel that vibration, leading to the bait tangling itself or just scaring too many fish away. Feeling the subtlety of a Rippin’ Rap in action leads to working it more properly, and I wouldn’t hesitate to use the smaller Jigging Raps with this rod either.

• 1/8 oz. Spoon Rod - Pat Smith of the old Thorne Bros. days really changed my line of thinking on these styles of rods maybe 15 years or so ago. Take a look at your ice tackle, and you might find that 60-75% of what you own for perch and eyes anyway, is of the 1/8 oz. size, which makes finding the perfect rod to fish that size paramount to your success for those species. The Perch/Eye Spoon rod (CI28MLF) was designed to be an 1/8 oz. staple, and swiss army knife rod for most walleye applications. If you own one walleye rod from this lineup, this is likely the one.

• #4 Rippin’ Raps and Jigging Raps - Both baits will fish better on the Search Bait Rod (CI32MF) given the weight of them, the power of these rods (M) and action (F), with the action being a key component. Ultra fast actions are the rage for ice rods, and though they certainly have their time and place, too fast for crankbaits in open water is just the same as too fast with hard baits through the ice. Keep in mind, a St. Croix fast action is already a touch faster than most manufacturers, but too fast prevents maximum swing, action, and fish-landed. I’m of the opinion that a fast action keeps more fish buttoned all the way to the hole, which is a huge consideration with hard baits and hard walleye mouths.

• Bigger Jigging Raps and #4 Rippin’ Raps - Certainly the largest baits, and even the #4 Rippin’ Rap work better on the open ice with a slightly longer rod. Think trophy scenarios, big head-shakes, and trolling the open ice. If a good portion of your fishing involves these baits on these waters, I’d have no hesitation in recommending the Outside Eye (CI36MF).

So there you have it, it’s what I’ve been fishing for the same baits in last winter’s testing phases, as well as what I’ll be stringing up this winter. Let me know if you have any followup questions, and kudos to you for doing your homework, as pairing the best rod to the job at hand will always lead to a better experience and more fish.

Joel

Mid-Summer Crappies

Dan M. Asks:

We vacation near Park Rapids in July and by then the crappies can be hard to find. What tips do you have for locating them and what baits seem to work best. Thanks

Good question Dan.  You're right, when it comes to mid-summer, crappies can be a bit more challenging.  In most places I fish, early morning and evening low-light periods are definitely where most of the action happens, so be ready to fish when fish are active.  Also, be sure to target lakes where crappies are abundant in the first place.  Typically, I focus on one of a few patterns for mid-summer crappies depending on the lake.  

Pattern #1 - Slow rolling a jig and paddle-tail or twister-tail of any variety is a great way to catch weedbed fish.  Especially cabbage or lily pad bound fish that hide in the depths, or smack in the shallows during the day, you'll have good luck staying off of inside turns and/or points in the cabbage and casting up to them.  1/16 oz jigs are about the right size, but pair the weight to where and how you're fishing.

Pattern #2 - Increasingly, I'm falling in love with trolling Northland Tuff Tubes under the power of a trolling motor in the wide-open.  This may be a flat, or out over 50FOW, but use your electronics to side-image new paths, and your down-imaging or 2D sonar to find fish under you.  Various jig weights and plastic sizes get the job done, and this will be the subject of upcoming articles because of how well it works.

Pattern #3 - Don't forget vertical jigging over open water schools, or even weedline fishing for crappies that choose to feed on bottom-dwelling invertebrates like bloodworms.  The best weedlines are deep, dense, and form some sort of point or inside turn.  Soft bottom adjacent or butting up against these weedbeds are what crappies need to find food.  

Fish some new areas, and use your electronics to dial in new spots during the day, so you'll be ready to take them on at dawn or evening hours.

Good luck,

Joel

Which Fillet Knife, Why?

Erik V. asks:

On opener, you posted some pics of you cleaning some eyes. What kind of electric knife do you use and why? Do you ever use a "traditional" knife?

Great question Erik.  For those walleyes, I was using a Lithium Ion Cordless Fillet Knife.  I've got a few sets of blades for different sized fish, and for fish that are walleye sized and up, they're the best I've found.  They make quick work of knocking off the sides, and yet are able to cut out the rib cage portions from fillets easily as well.  I like a fixed blade traditional knife for eyes too, but feel I'm a bit faster on the electric for those species.

I own a number of smaller traditional knives for panfish and walleyes, and the upside to these are that they're relatively inexpensive, sharpen easily, and are better for detail work.  For $50, you can have a few of them everywhere, in the boat, at the cabin, in the truck, etc.  I like the simple rubber handled versions with a non-slip grip.  Wood handled versions are great, and that's what I started on, but much of that part is personal preference.  

Joel

Fishing Log Hack

Tom M. asks:

This season I’ve been pushing myself to explore new fishing spots rather than relying on the regulars. I’ve found that between contour maps and a few DNR resources there is a ton of great information out there to prepare for a trip, rather than walking in blind (thanks for the resources, btw).

With all the new information both from the prep and actual fishing I’m struggling to stay organized. Navionics markers are great, but just scratch the surface. Do you have any tips of how to keep fishing records aside from a manual log book? Things such as trip dates, fish caught, successful lures, weather, ice conditions, etc. would be nice to look back on when planning future trips. Thanks!

This is a great question.  I find myself wishing at times I still kept a written log, as especially in a wheelhouse, when you have time on-ice you can really get detailed.  I did this for two seasons religiously in 2002 and 2003, and I can attest from experience that it makes you a better angler.  Not only do you record what you're seeing, you're exercising the idea of being observational, which makes you look at all of these details in a deeper manner. 

There's some great online apps like Fishidy, Pro Angler, etc., with each having their own Pros/Cons.  The upside for many of them, map-based, log information in pre-formatted entry forms, but the downside is often lots of stuff you don't need.

These days, our phones go with us wherever we go, and there's a great built in camera.  Photos tell the story, and more than anything, help jog our memories when we forget some crucial details.  Unlocking these key parts of your brain that store the information is something a simple photograph can do, so at least take plenty of pictures.

Even better, I've been using the Google Keep feature on my Android phone to gather some great information.  I can use it on my phone, then log-in at anytime from anywhere to see the information - https://keep.google.com/

It really organizes a few quick text blurbs, along with any photos or other information you have.  I can take screen grabs of the current weather, Navionics app location, along with some fish and bait pictures, then store that to a single Note I write for myself.  It's been a quick and handy way for me to stay organized and on top of what I do!

Marcum LX-7 Gain Settings

Anthony V. asks:

Hi Joel sorry to bug you had a question about the new lx7 lithium combo. In the settings do you know what the difference between sonar 1 and sonar 2 are ? I could not find it anywhere. Thanks

Each gain option on the LX-6, LX-7, or LX-9 represents a different gain curve, 1 shifts things less sensitive. Use it with a huge lure or target rich environment, super, super hard bottom, tons of signals dual returns, things like that. Gain 2 is a more normal curve assumed with most of the rest of Marcum products.

Good luck! Joel

Flasher Upgrade - Which One?

Bobby K. asks:

Hey Joel,

In the market to upgrade flasher. Looking at the LX5i vs the new M5. Is the only difference the brushless technology in the M5? Is the brushless tech worth the $150 extra? Looking to put the one I decide on on the new shuttle. 

Thanks

Bobby

Thanks for the question Bobby - The primary difference on the M5 is brushless tech, but colors are better defined and brighter yet through a patented design called the "light pipe."  Detectable to the avg. angler?  Yes, but moreso in a side by side comparison.  Staying ahead of the tech curve is a philosophical question mostly.  You’re always going to pay more to be on the cutting edge, but depending on your view, it may or may not be worth it.  What I can tell you about the M5 is that there’ll be less antiquated parts to worry about in years to come, as some of those parts are getting as hard to find as an 8-track tape player.