How to Fish a Lake with No Contour Map?

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Andrew H. asks:

Good morning Joel,
I have several new lakes I want to try fishing but the kicker is there’s no lake map. My question is how do you approach a new lake that has no lake map?
Thanks, Andrew

This is a great question, and something I'm faced with anytime I fish something off the beaten path.  Over the years, I've found a few ways of getting at that problem, though it does involve some digital reconnaissance as well as some on-lake interpretation.

From a digital perspective, here are just some of the resources I utilize:

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  • MN DNR Recreation Compass - useful resource for just looking around and understanding how/where to navigate to

  • MN Landview - online GIS platform to compare multiple natural resources layers, aerial photos, etc.

  • MN Lakefinder - even when there's not a lake depth map, the other tabs, like "water quality" databases can provide very useful information. For example, on this lake, though there's no depth map, I know that max depth is sampled at 13 feet, making me comfortable that it can withstand winterkills and maintain a fish population. Not to mention, I know it's likely a shallow depression with little in the way of offshore structure:

After sleuthing what database information I can, I next look to aerial photos, primarily with Google Earth.  Comparing historically different dates of photography is ultra helpful, especially in larger water bodies with no map that also contain offshore structure.  This is especially useful in remote areas like the Boundary Waters Canoe Area.  Compare these two dates of photos, with the second showing you just how shallow and boggy a portion of this lake really is.  Only look at one date, and you'd be misled:

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From here, I turn to elevation information from the shoreline.  Often, shoreline features are great indicators of what's going on beneath the water surface as well.  For this resource in MN, I utilize LiDAR elevation information, which may or may not be available where you fish:

MN TOPO - LiDAR Elevation Website - For example, on the below lake, you've got a pretty good idea of where the steepest breaks will be based just on shoreline elevation.

On The Water - From here, you need to use your electronics, plenty of holes, and a good amount of determination to mentally map the lake bottom.  Always in the back of your brain be conceptualizing how a lake bottom looks like while you push on.  Let your focus first guide understanding of the structure, or lack thereof, and what it's doing to fish you mark.  People rush to the fishing part too quickly without fully understanding what's going on below.  A bit of time working on the front end, usually translates to better catching on the backside. 

Fishing these bodies of water constitutes some of the best fishing, and most fun I have annually.  Of course we strike out constantly, but finding a gem of your own makes it worthwhile.

What Kind of Line for Panfish and Walleyes?

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

Chad S. writes:

I have a couple poles just for panfish and some that i use for walleye and panfish sometimes. What is the best line to use for panfish and is there a certain line that you would recommend for both walleye and also be used for panfish ? Do you prefer braid over mono and what brand do you normally use?

Thanks for the question Chad - I've been using the Sufix Invisiline Fluorocarbon for a few years now, and like what it has to offer.  Previously I was using the Ice Magic, and liked it too, but found the Invisiline had such similar properties while also having more transparency being a Fluorocarbon line.  

Unlike many Fluoro's I've tried, this stuff isn't brittle, and doesn't fray/split like some others I've tried over the years.  The best part too is that it remains manageable and relatively memory-free for much longer than traditional fluorocarbons.

As for braid, it's tough to use except in a permanent house, but there's a few situations when fishing deep when it's key.  I fished with JJ Malvitz and Tony Roach a few winters ago for whitefish in Green Bay where the 832 Ice Braid was the cornerstone of the whole program.

Joel  

Go-To Jigs and Plastics for Panfish

Neil R. asks:

Joel,
What are your go to jigs and plastics for panfish throughout the ice season?

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Hi Neil – This is a tough question, as there are many baits I’ll use over the course of a winter in different situations.  Sometimes, it’s a matter of catching a few and seeing what they’re coughing up, or other times, my selection is based solely on size and color of the bait, especially when clarity is poor.  Still, I’m just like other anglers, where I have my own bias when it comes to tendencies and go-to’s.  I’ll detail a few that are clear winners no matter where I’ve gone.

Horizontal:

·         Tungsten Tubby – 1/16 oz and 1/32 oz – Pair up sizes with confidence colors of your own, but no matter where I go, this is typically the #1 jig I use as the backbone of the presentation.  It hangs more at a 45 degree angle, yet dances horizontally much like a minnow.  The head-up and tail-down presentation works well, as I’ve seen many fish on underwater camera comfortable in approaching it from below. 

Vertical

·         Waxy Jig – This bait gets little outward press, but is the best vertical presentation I show to panfish annually.  I love mixing it up and giving them a bait that hangs differently.  Those small details are often what helps you in turning a good day into a great day. 

Plastics

·         Mustache Worm – I’ve been a huge fan of this design since its inception.  I run twin tails for crappies, and pull one off for most bluegill situations, but I can rig these things in incredible variations.  I prefer the bigger ones for gills and crappies both, and really appreciate the flexibility it gives any presentation.

·         Wax Tail – This is a great design when grubs are the order of the day.  Often, when friends are doing well on bait, I can do as well or better with this plastic, as it has the bulk needed on the hook shank with some attracting movement in the tail-section.  The biggest sizes on any jig are great for trophy crappies!

·         Nymph – This is a quality design for the big waters where mayfly’s are present.  Perch love these things, especially in the buggy colors, but also in the white and glow colors at night.  When you’re catching perch that are spitting up bugs all around the hole, this is a go-to.

Newbies with Promise

Here’s a few plastics I’ve run with some success thus far, but I’m going to be doing more testing on them this year. 

2017 VMC Tungsten Lineup – I’ve used the Probe Jig as a bloodworm imitator with some success for gills fishing it right on bottom, and I’m super intrigued with the Crayfish Jig for all kinds of applications, especially perch and even walleye.  This season will be another fun winter of experimenting to see what the new baits can do and how they stack up to time-honored and true favorites!

Joel

What is Trophic Status, and How Does It Affect Fishing?

David K. asks:

Hey Joel I was wondering what the differences are between a lakes trophic status and how that affects the fishery as far as being eutrophic, mesotrophic and so on and so forth.

Hi David – there’s some really great book resources to learn more on this, I’m thinking specifically from a Limnology course in my past.  Of course there are some online sources as well, and this was the first hit on Google.

Without getting too detailed regarding the science, and focusing more on the fishing and fishery aspect, remember these are general guidelines helpful for discussing similarities among lakes of similar type.  Consider trophic status as an indicator, among other things, of fertility.  Eutrophic lakes are highly fertile, often dominated by shallow weed growth, and thus extremely productive systems.  They can be prone to winterkill because of their shallow nature, and can also be warmer bodies of water in general.  Bass and panfish communities tend to be the dominant species groups here, but many more species can exist depending on other factors.  Oligotrophic lakes on the other end of the spectrum are rock-controlled, deep-water, and minimally fertile lakes.  You’ll find these in Canadian shield areas, with their gamefish species composition being often consisting of lake trout, pike, and walleye.  Mesotrophic lakes describe a very large swath in the middle, often with sand and gravel controlled middle-depth features.  A large host of species can live here.

The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources goes a bit further in regards to classifying their fisheries by specific chemical and physical characteristics.  They divide the lakes in Minnesota into 43 distinct classes that help serve to compare sampling averages and general population statistics among other lakes within the same class.  Spend any time in the MN DNR Lakefinder App, and you’ll discover that many of the same walleye lakes well-known to hold quality populations or trophy fish, often are of a handful of lake class numbers.  The same is true for other species throughout the state.  Without giving up too many secrets, I’ll leave it up to you to do the research to discover which ones are which, but these are just a few hints to finding similar lakes that produce compared to lakes of a known quantity. 

Joel

Where to Find Bluegills - Early Ice Weedbed Questions

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Colby K. asks:

Joel, I love watching you fish in lakes up by the Bemidji area. I have a flasher, underwater camera and lakemaster, and like to target lakes people don't fish. What is the best way to utilize weeds to find bluegills? And if you find alive weeds do you like them near drop offs? Or what can I look for topographically for gills in December? Any help is great thank you!

Well Colby, those are some big topics, but I’ll do my best to give you my take on early season weeds and gills.  I think you’re wise to focus on these locations right out of the gate, as I’ve had some poor fishing in traditional spots and community winter panfish holes during the first few weeks of the season. 

As far as topo map locations, I think most of the spots I favor are pretty easy to find.  They typically involve some sort of inside turn pushing up from deep water into the shallows, especially where the shallows lead into another neckdown, lake, or other expansive flat and shallow water environment.  I’m a firm believer that these locations act as funnels, channeling fish movements through a pinch-down area and helping you to simply get more looks from more fish.  Other spots would include major points, or mid-lake humps that have weeds as well.

For better or worse however, the quality and species of the weeds can trump location, with good standing cabbage and/or coontail in the afore-mentioned locations being a premium.  Good weedbeds will hold a few fish in almost any location, just like good structural depth elements will.  Combining the two is what you’re after.

This job is made easier with a great underwater camera like the Recon, as a portable hand-held panfish camera is simply made for such scenarios.  Often, especially mid-day, panfish will hunker down tight to the weeds, so finding small pockets, hard edges, and their overall location within the weeds is of the utmost importance.  They do this in lakes with formidable predator populations, and you’ll likely catch a few bass and pike in the process.  That said, a few feet too far away, and you’d think there’s not a fish in the lake.  Small moves can pay huge dividends here, and don’t be afraid to drill plenty of holes. 

Of course, all lakes aren’t created equal when it comes to panfish in the weeds.  Some lakes simply don’t have the quality weedgrowth of the proper species at depth, and others have such large amounts of predators, that finding them in weeds is a difficult process.  In these situations, or with the lack of weedy success, don’t be afraid to push directly out from those areas into the 15-25 foot depths to see if they’re suspended near bottom.  I would consider these more typical midwinter locations, but don’t be afraid to try them if you’re not getting bit. 

I hope this shortens the search, and good luck!

Joel

Which Marcum? LX-7 or the New M5?

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Josh K. asks:

Hey Joel. I'm switching to marcum this year and know you run them. I fish a lot in South Eastern ND for perch and walleye in usually less than 10' of water. I'm torn between the M5 and LX7. Van you give me some pros and cons of each. Always ran vex so looking for any info. Would be much appreciated. Thanks

Hi Josh - I think much of it depends on personal preference at that point, though I think there's a few ways to break them down. The LX-7 has the bigger screen, digital output, and nearly infinite levels of customization when looking at the graph as open-water scrolling mode, flasher display, and/or vertical display. There's alot of fish catching power in tuning in a unit to your own tendencies and preferences.  If you know you like a bigger screen, then for many people that's all it takes.  People have discussed the shallow water performance, and my experiences have been that when using proper depth range settings, you'll have no issues.    

In regards to the new Marcum M5, you've got something that looks much more similar to the Vexilar you're switching from, so that amount of familiarity is nice for a lot of anglers. If you really enjoy the circular style flasher display, have known and loved it for years, and don't see yourself using the other features of the LX-7, then I wouldn't hesitate to go M5.  It'll save you some money and you'll get an upgrade from your Vex.

Now here's the important part! - Whatever you do, go Lithium.  You can get either model on the new Lithium platform for not that much more money.  The increase in run-time, speedy charging, and more than 30% weight savings makes it a no-brainer for the serious hole hopper and ice-angler like yourself.  

It's been more than a decade since I've switched out for good on my electronics, but I'm looking to use the Lithium M5 as my primary unit this year instead of the trusty LX-5 I've always used.  

Get the Lithium LX-7, or the Lithium M5 and don't look back!

Joel

Are Big Walleyes Sterile, and Does Putting Them Back Help or Hurt the Population?

Bill W. Asks:

Just got back from a great trip to Lake of the Woods. Subject came up with lots of discussion. Are big walleyes sterile and does putting them back help or hurt the general population. One said a MN DNR conservation officer told them to take them home, as they don't breed and they compete with smaller walleyes.  What is the right choice?

Thanks for the question Bill – there’s a lot to chew on there.  We can start with a couple of fisheries-related truths, but the devil’s in the details and interpretations of these facts and what it means for you as an individual out there fishing is the key.

I think a graphic showing typical walleye size distribution in lakes would be a good start.  As you can see, a chart of male and female walleye size distribution for the Winnebago, WI system reveals few surprises.  Females are generally larger, and for both sexes, the number of larger individuals becomes fewer and fewer.  This is due to a host of factors like angling pressure and desire to catch and keep larger fish, but even in completely un-fished systems the number and biomass of larger fish is far smaller than that of fish in any other class.   

2013 Lake Winnebago, WI walleye size (length) vs. amount distribution.

2013 Lake Winnebago, WI walleye size (length) vs. amount distribution.

As for spawning, big walleyes are far from sterile.  In fact, they produce more eggs than their smaller female counterparts by far.  However, in some systems, most notably Lake Erie, these larger walleye’s eggs have been studied for viability (number that hatch vs. number that are actually laid).  There and in other select systems with rapid growth rates, 20-24” or so fish have better egg viability, meaning that more of them hatch and go on to survive. 

Large fish (24”+) contain obviously successful genetics, many more eggs, and still produce an incredible number of walleye fry.  Therein lies the rub.  To fisheries managers considering that size distribution graph, mid-range fish as a group can be considered more valuable to the overall health of the fishery, so they aim to regulate take among this class of fish.  That’s not primarily because of their spawning success, it’s because this range of fish size represents the bulk of the spawning biomass for the entire system being that there are more 20-24” fish in the lake than any other size class.  In northern systems where walleyes grow much more slowly, those sizes are slid down the ruler a bit more.

In my opinion, anglers and even some fisheries managers have perverted these principles to arrive at the false notion that big walleyes are sterile, "dried-up", or that they simply don't contribute to the system in a meaningful way so you'd be well advised to keep them.  Some have even penned thoughts regarding walleyes that die of old age as “lost opportunities to anglers.”  I have read their arguments, done the scientific literature reviews from across the United States and Canada, and have seen the aftermath play out both personally and from afar.  Suffice to say, I disagree, and feel that the implications of selling this story only exacerbates several problems for both anglers AND fisheries managers.

First and foremost, the most unflinching facts are that no matter the system:

1.       Large walleyes are highly sought after

2.       Large walleyes are more rare than their smaller counterparts

3.       A walleye caught and killed cannot be caught again

4.       A walleye caught and killed cannot spawn, no matter how viable their eggs may be  

Which to me, supports the conclusion that ALL spawners should enjoy some form of protection beyond the ability of nature or stocking programs to completely and consistently replace fish removed from a population through natural or angler-driven mortality.  

I’m not a fish-worshiper either, in that I love taking fish for the pan, especially walleyes.  In most systems I fish in the Midwest, walleyes are the most intensively managed species, are regularly stocked, and present one of the most responsible species choices for harvesting some fillets from.  It's simply a matter of expectations and maintaining good fishing where it is already.  The larger point that’s missed here however is the last one in that no matter the system, spawners represent a future made not-so-certain by weather, bait, depredation, and a host of other environmental factors.  

The message relating to the thought of large fish don't matter or contribute to the overall health of the fishery is a dangerous one.  Large walleyes that die due to old age or natural causes are not a loss to the fishery, only in a small way are they a loss to those anglers that keep all fish.  Even with reduced fertility, they do produce offspring, and to toss them out and say they don't contribute is inaccurate.

While Lake Erie may very well be able to produce more overall fish per year, the vast majority of fisheries cannot once you account for both fishing and natural mortality.  It's inevitable that these theories spread and become applied to non-like fisheries, including the jump into other species like gills and pike where we know that large individuals are incredibly important to the overall population.  

In viewing the graph above you see that taking fish less than 20”es dramatically reduces the amount of females taken in general, though admittedly, targeting such a large percentage of males-only has created problems in some notable fisheries where both hook-and-line anglers and gill-netting takes place simultaneously.  Erie may present some additional challenges, in that fish less than 20”es can be difficult to come by because of how quickly those fish grow, but as discussed, the vast majority of the walleye world does not enjoy similar productivity.

Anecdotally, the fall-out becomes similar to what you heard Bill, and what I’ve seen purported in person and online.  Facts get twisted, statements are revised, and studies are used to endorse behavior that while at times legal, certainly doesn’t promote the future of good numbers of larger fish in all systems.  In today’s age of social media angling, large piles of bloodied fish on the ice or stringer shots of pale, warm walleyes not only fly in the face of the value of catch and release angling, it provides detriment to future generations of anglers that see these practices as generally acceptable.

So what's a walleye angler to do?  My boat rule for almost all of the waters I fish throughout the Midwest is that 20” and larger eyes go back, and most times that drops down to 18” fish if we have other species or an abundance of smaller fish.  Reasonable exceptions are legal in most states, including a trophy fish or two being allowed per angler.  However, this is a far cry from “we should be taking only larger fish, or all larger fish.”

We value them because of their size and because they are rare, and many of us are willing to spend much larger amounts of money to target walleyes in areas where large fish are less rare.  To preserve those opportunities and with luck even foster or promote them, I see little reason (scientific or otherwise) to harvest increasing numbers of large walleyes outside of the occasional trophy.  

Joel      

Why Would I Buy a Marcum LX-5 Now?

Ben Datres asks:

Hey Joel, I've heard some talk on In-Depth Outdoors about a new line of Marcums coming out, possibly all digital like the humingbirds? I know you can't tell me those details but marcum has the lx5i at a crazy good discontinued price. I'm strongly thinking of getting one now unless you think its worth waiting for the new line of flashers? I've had a showdown troller 2 for the last 4 years so it would be a huge upgrade.

I've had a chance to play with the updated flasher, and I'm excited for what it'll bring to the table.  That said, at 40% off, the Marcum LX5i that I currently use is too great an opportunity to pass up!  The Marcum LX-5 in all its original glory has been revised a few times, but keeps getting better and better.  While I'd hate for you to miss out on what's up and coming, I know full-well that many people are interested in the price point that this tried and true flasher is now offered at.  

Regarding flashers, especially on price buys like this, my thoughts have always been that you can purchase and always re-sell on the used market once ice hits once you're ready to upgrade.  That used market is incredibly strong, especially in November.  

Enjoy your purchase, I know I'll be keeping mine around for sentimental reasons if for nothing else.  That unit has put some beasts on the ice!

Joel