Best Ice Fishing Portable Shelter Options - Otter Cabin

J. Wagner asks:

I know that I’ve see your reviews and usage of Otter portables. Currently using another brand but with the weight and round tubes I am looking at getting an Otter. Typically just me but don’t really like the fishable area or standing height so now I’m looking at the Cabin. My issues are 600 vs 1200 denier canvas overall added weight and the boat seats (preferred) vs bench.

I would have loved to ask at the Ice Show but that’s not happening so wanted to track out to someone I have followed and watched for years. I appreciate any insight you can give.

Hey Joe - thanks for the question and I’ll do my best to break down the models, sizing, and seating options for you.

Shell - Denier count is a measure of the thickness of the individual threads used to make up the fabric, and the 1200 denier XT PRO X-Over Cabin will have a tougher exterior than the 600 denier XT X-Over Cabin. In the pro-series, there’s also larger squares on the interior of the shell to loft more insulating air, making it a warmer shelter. That said, a few short years ago, 600 denier was above and beyond the industry standard for warmth and durability, so we’re just seeing better technology work its way up the chain. I don’t have a problem heating either shelter, but if you’re an angler continually fishing extreme northern climates, the PRO series shell may be a better pick for you.

Weight - It’s important to note that every Otter is lightest in class when compared to shelters of similar fishable space and interior square footage. That’s accomplished through lighter hardware and materials, and the difference in weight between the XT PRO X-Over Cabin and the XT X-Over Cabin is 8lbs. The Pro series is just a touch heaver at 103lbs vs. 95lbs.

Seats - If the bucket seats are preferred, your shelter is the XT PRO X-Over Cabin. While the bench seats offer a bit more seating, it’s hard to beat the comfort of those bucket seats. Additionally, you’re able to affix a few really nice options into the shelter. The Sportsman’s Caddy fits right between the two seats, features a locking lid, and holds everything from batteries to bait. It’s a MacGyver-style toolbox for everything you need on ice. If you don’t need it enclosed, you can’t beat the Otter Sidekick for the price. Same organizational idea, and great on a bucket too.

Accessories - If you’re new to Otter shelters, save some room in the budget for the items that really make an Otter, an Otter. They extend the fishability, and make a day on the ice that much more hassle free. Items like a rigid tow-hitch, cargo net and hammock netting options, along with a hitch pivot can really make your new fish-house a home on the ice. If you do any night angling at all, consider this dimmable, flexible light kit that makes evening angling easier than ever.

Thanks for the question, and good luck fishing!

Joel

Keeping Hands Warm

Pictured - Stealth Gloves

J. Schragg asks:

Just wondering how you keep your hands warm ice fishing with no obvious heat source outside? I.e. lantern? Do you handwarmers?

I’ve always been a proponent of using the right tool for the job, and that applies to gloves or other strategies for keeping your hands warm. Different conditions and scenarios call for different ways of doing things. I own a number of pairs of gloves for fishing outside, and for the most part, I utilize 3 or 4 different types depending on what I’m doing for the day.

Long snowmobile or ATV rides across the open ice call for the warmest of warm. No matter how you stack it, you’ll likely need a mitten more than a glove in this scenario unless you’ve got heated handlebars. Even then, I once took a 45 mile snowmobile ride in -24 degrees Fahrenheit with a great pair of leather gloves where my palms were on fire, and the tops of my hands were nearly frozen. Mittens like the Tundra utilize the warmth of all fingers and some serious air loft to insulate. There’s no warmer option in my opinion. That’s especially true if you add liner gloves. Pop off the mitts and use the liners for a quick task or two, then put the mitts on and you’ve got the warmest 1-2 punch I know of.

That said, for most “cold” situations, you need a little bit of dexterity, plenty of warmth, and a whole lot of toughness for hooks, walleye fins, and rough ice. I use the Striker Combat gloves for probably 60% of my fishing, because they check all those boxes while being absolutely bulletproof.

For most other fishing or when dexterity is the name of the game, I use the Striker Stealth gloves. These are great around the fish-house, and setting things up. They’re not quite as warm as the previous two options, but are completely waterproof and allow you to perform any fine motor skills. You can run your phone with them, put pins in hitches, connect propane hoses, etc. - all while keeping your hands from getting wet. No wet equals warm on all but the coldest days.

I’m not a huge fan of handwarmers except when deer hunting, and even then I use them exclusively in a warmer muff wrapped around your waist. Ice fishing for me is more active than that, negating the use of them as much as I do when hunting deer.

Joel

Ice Fishing - To Swivel or Not to Swivel?

Photo Credit - Matt Addington Photography

Products Featured:

St. Croix - Croix Custom Ice Perch/Eye Spoon Rod - CI28MLF

Daiwa QG750

Darren B. asks:

There seems to be an ongoing debate on whether or not a fisherman should use a barrel swivel above a fluorocarbon leader or if one should tie a uni knot. Are there certain times that one should be used over the other? What is your preferred presentation?

The long and short of the matter is that I prefer a swivel when I can.  Especially for flutter type spoons as they really swing, tumble, and roll around. Your average lead spoons still will impart some line twist, but not nearly that of a flatter spoon design.

That said, when the bite is hot and something breaks, I choose time and efficiency over tying in another swivel.  I’ve never used a uni-knot to connect on ice, but would do so in the event I needed braid.  Whitefishing in deep water would be a prime example of that, but I might take the opportunity to use a swivel there as well, unless my leader needed to be long.  Green Bay Walleyes and Whitefish again would come to mind given the clarity of water you’re fishing them in.  Hope this makes sense, and hopefully it answered your question. 

Thanks!

Joel

Jigging Rap Tips and Tricks

Karl J. asks:

I have been ice fishing with jigging raps for a couple years without success. What are a few jigging cadences to try with the jigging rap that will help my catch rate increase? Thank you for any information you provide.

Great question Karl. 

Jigging raps are great lures I’ve been fishing a long time, especially for panfish, but have really re-discovered using them over the past few years for walleyes.  A trip with Grant Sorenson a few years ago triggered some extra looks from me, and I kept finding myself using it more and more.  Especially as zebra mussel infested lakes become clearer, water bodies like Mille Lacs, Leech, and even Pepin have become better jig-rap lakes at least for me.  I think that has something to do with the way the lure aggressively swings, zips, and darts around, triggering reaction strikes from walleyes that get a great visual on the lure.

Keep in mind, there’s a lot to the rod and line combination.  The new St. Croix Search Bait and Outside Eye Rods were designed for this lure and others in the same weight/displacement category.  I’m pairing it with Sufix Fluoroclear and in deeper water I like that there’s a bit of flex and stretch, but not too much. 

Something that will help you unlock some great cadences is literally just studying it on an underwater camera.  Last year I tested some new baits and kind of have it down to a process at this point.  I get in a comfortable place, either wheelhouse or portable, and drop that Marcum Quest Camera.  Examine everything from big rips to small shakes, and everything in between, exactly as a fish would see it.  Learn what it takes to rock a bait back and forth, and specifically for the jigging rap, how to swim it in a circle.  Practice those and know what the bait does so you can pull the camera so it won’t spook walleyes later with fish on screen. 

Keep in mind that it’s not summer, and a fish’s metabolism is not at the same rate either.  Fish can be aggressive, but overall you won’t fish a jigging rap in the winter with the same amount of lift/swing that you would an open water setup.  What relative big swings you do are for drawing in fish, but the jigging rap can scare more fish than it catches if you continue to rip with fish on screen.  Smaller lifts and slack can be too aggressive too, as without knowing where the bait is darting you can actually turn them off by having it unnaturally charge them.  Once a fish is on your flasher, higher above them is a safe zone, and I usually only drop to reset the cadence or pound the bottom and stir up sediment, the latter happening only after a fish is starting to drift off screen.  From there, I try to unlock that rocking motion as best possible, relying on my underwater camera work to inform that jigging stroke. 

As always, take a fish’s temperature and interpret the aggressiveness of the mark.  My biggest fish on a jigging rap is also my biggest walleye to date, nearly a 13lb fish from Lake Erie that came among a flurry of 3 fish that went well over 25lbs.  Those fish reacted like bait perch, flying around the graph, and vapor-trailing up to smash baits from 5-7 feet below.  Big rips didn’t intimidate them, and drew the attention of that school I’m convinced.  Conversely, last winter on Mille Lacs I was having more success fishing it with a few darts and more subtle dancing in circles, then just quivering it rapidly with fish on screen.  Point being – each fish and water body is different, and what works one place may not work well in another.  Getting good with that lure, then offering fish a variety of looks is usually the key to success.  Target-rich environments help narrow down the winning look that much more quickly.

Good luck, and keep at it!

Joel    

Is My Ice Suit Warm Enough?

Tim L. from Oakdale writes:

Hi Joel,
I watched your Youtube video posted in September about the Striker Ice Trekker suit. I just bought the Trekker bibs and jacket…they feel as heavy and warm as what I've worn in the past while ice fishing. But have yet to test them outside of the house.

What is your take on their warmth level mid-winter, as opposed to early/late season? I typically wear base layer with sweat shirt/jeans, and am hoping this will work sufficiently for mid winter with the Trekker.
Thank you.
Tim
PS - I plan on attending the St Paul Ice Show opening day Friday. If you'll be there, I'll introduce myself.

If you’re active on ice at all, you’ll need to focus on venting to keep sweat from making you cold.

Pictured - Otter XT X-Over Lodge

Thanks for the question Tim - I’ve had a chance to wear these for most of last season, and can tell you, if you’re hole-hopping or even slightly mobile, the Trekker suit is plenty warm for the middle-ice-belt and lower. I reside in southern MN and we just don’t get the extreme temps that the northern portions of the Midwest get. My heater runs hot and everyone is different, but when I put on a base layer like yourself, that suit is very warm even without adding the jacket.

Quite often, we’re wearing too much suit for the conditions and need to fight sweat, which is a bigger enemy than cold by far. That’s where the venting comes in. This past weekend was a warm one on ice, so I vented from the hips down to my knees with the side zippers, then didn’t wear a coat and just had a hoodie. I was perfectly comfortable in 30 degree weather.

Certainly, if you’re in extreme cold, you may want double-up with a baselayer, then midweight layer before the suit, but the Trekker shell will stop wind and moisture while providing a good amount of insulation to boot. You should also consider wearing a wicking baselayer bottom, with anything but jeans or cotton on top. Jeans are nice for getting out at the gas station or going out to eat, but can really rob you of warmth for an all-day fish in cold conditions. A nicer set of sweatpants can look good too, while being the perfect compliment to a base layer. It can really make a difference in cold weather especially.

Congrats on the purchase and stop by the St. Paul show, see you there!

Joel

What's Your Go-To Knot?

Kory T. asks:

Hey Joel, hope all of your preparations for this years ice fishing season are going smoothly, I’ve been watching your new and some older videos lately to touch up on my game!

What is your go to knot from your fluorocarbon leader to your hook/lure?

Thanks for the question Kory, though I wish I could boil it down to one single knot. My go-to line is Sufix Invisiline Ice - here are my go-to knots:

The first is the improved clinch and is built for speed and spoons. I tie this knot when I’m in a hurry, as I can do it more quickly than any other on account of sheer practice and familiarity. I also tie it when I’ve already got a great deal of “play” or action in my offering. For jigging spoons, this usually is the ticket as there’s multiple split rings and other movement that gives the bait action. My knot doesn’t need to add to that.

Next is the loop knot. I tie this one directly to panfish jigs primarily. It’s a bit more time consuming for me at least, especially with smaller diameter lines, but its paid dividends on certain days against other line ties. It’s also something I’ve seen across the ice belt with guides and other professionals. I fished with a guide out of the Mosquito Lagoon area in Florida a few winters ago who used this loop knot exclusively for everything. Jigs, topwater baits, you name it, that’s all he used, and he felt very strongly about how many more fish it helps him catch. Learn and add to your repertoire!

Joel

Which Shallow Running Crankbaits for Walleye?

It’s tough to beat a Shad Rap for multiple applications (trolling and casting) in both rivers and lakes.

Matt K. asks: Hey man, I was wondering if you have any recommendations for crankbaits being used for walleyes in shallow rocks (river dam)? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the question Matt.

Truth be told, there’s alot of crankbaits on the market that work well for running shallow in river (or lake) situations. Fall is the perfect time to start transitioning to more of those offerings as well. The trick is really how you’ll be running them, and where-from. I’ll break down below the two applications I see most commonly, and some recommendations for each.

Keep in mind too that fall is a great time to up-size your offerings, but that it can run in conflict with your mission to fish shallow. Most larger crankbaits will have a larger lip and will dive to a deeper depth, but there’s ways to get around that too.

Trolling - Fall is a great time to go hawg hunting, with pronounced trolling bites occurring on full-moon nights, as well as large wind events in the shallows. For these bites, it’s good to think larger stick-baits once waters drop into the low-mid 50’s. Above that, think shad-style baits. In cold water, there’s a number of great options for popular stick baits, from #12 and #14 Husky Jerks to Rattlin’ Rogues, there’s a bunch of great lures to choose from that have been staples for some time.

For the shad style baits, I’ve had great success with variations of the Rapala Shallow Shad Rap. Both Jointed and Non-Jointed options work well, and I’ll run the jointed versions (which rattle) in murkier water, and larger (#7) versions of the bait in clearer water. Both are trolling go-to’s when shallow water is the key.

Specifically in rivers, I’m a huge fan of the #4 Shad Rap. The thing is smaller than you think, dives only slightly more shallow, but seems to be about right for most of the rivers I’m pulling when targeting late-summer and fall walleyes. It seems to be a good size for eater fish as well, and you’ll catch all kinds of other species on this downsizer crankbait!

Casting - I grew up fishing shallow rivers, and whether you’re on shore or on a boat, you’ve got some great options. The venerable shad raps are a perfect choice, especially in #4 or #5. They can get hard to cast with much wind or a rod that’s too stiff. This rod launches those small balsa baits a long ways, as it loads slowly and throws it more like a dart than the dreaded end-over-end tumble that tangles your line and robs your distance.

You can also consider lipless cranks in the right situations, and just work them quickly with a high-rod to avoid snags. Stick to #5 Rippin’ Raps in lakes or rivers for shallow fishing, and you can be rewarded with some great fishing. These are definitely big-fish baits.

Along with larger minnow imitations, keep those craw patterns in the lineup as well to test against. They can continue to produce, even in the hot colors, well into late-fall. For that reason, especially on small rivers, a classic has always been the Wee Crawfish. It’s another staple that will see a ton of multi-species interest.

Don’t forget for any crank you’ll be throwing or trolling to use some good quality snaps. Larger sizes will give the bait more range of motion, which can make all the difference. I use these for their larger loop-end.

Good luck and tight-lines!

Joel

Best Walleye Rod for $100?

Here’s a question (paraphrased) from a Scheel’s Mankato Customer on April 27th this year:

Customer - I’ve got a few old walleye rods I’m looking to upgrade, but everything new I’m seeing is a few hundred bucks. Is there anything of quality I can get under $125, or even $100?

Me - What are you looking to do with them and how do you fish?

Customer - Mostly jigging, some vertical fishing but more casting than anything.

My answer was pretty simple in that especially at the $100 price point, there’s rather few options for a quality stick. Still, a few familiar lengths, powers, and actions lend themselves well to both walleye AND bass rods, meaning that the St. Croix Bass X rods were my pick for $100. Specifically, the 6’8” MXF and 6’10” MLXF Spinning for jig applications. Depending on the weights you’d be fishing, either the Medium or Medium Light Powers would be good choices.

It’s rare to see any rod in the $100 category with true X-tra Fast (XF) actions, which are so critical to proper jig fishing. It’s even more rare to see them as lightweight with quality components, another hallmark of any good walleye jigging rod. I promise that the “Bass-X” on the blank will work just fine for any walleye application, and the fish certainly won’t care!

Joel