Rattle Versus Flash - Jigging Spoon Selection Guide

There’s more than one way to skin a walleye, and it’s true that often a variety of presentations can work well, even equally well, on a given day.  Usually however, there’s a better fish-trap for a certain water body, weather pattern, or depth range.  Often too, certain species can select for a type of a lure or presentation based simply on their biology and what they like to eat.  To make matters even more confusing, there are simply times of the year where one type of presentation will outperform the other based solely on metabolism and activity levels.  Here’s a stab at sorting out what’s best and when.

Spoon Feeding Basics

Walleyes, perch, and even panfish love to eat jigging spoons that come in a multitude of shapes and sizes, yet for the most part, you can often separate them into two very basic classes: rattle or flash spoons.  Yes, there are more types than this, but it’s safe to say that 80% of the spoon market fits into these two categories.  That fact makes your job in selecting a winner just a bit easier, though there are a host of diverging classes inside each the rattle spoons and the flash ones.

Rattle spoons first, are a class that relies on that rattle to draw fish in from distance, but not all rattle spoons are created equal.  Most are heavy, lead spoons that serve as much as a dumb waiter for bait delivery, as they do a rattling presentation that’s meant to attract from afar.  These spoons are good for dropping into the lake bottom to create a “cloud” that may attract fish along with the noise they make underwater.  Some rattles are made of metal, and now a new glass rattle option exists to really call fish from a long distance away underwater.  Glass simply performs better in this scenario to really draw fish in, though there are times when a more subdued “tick” from the metal versions is better.  Less can really be more in some situations, especially midwinter.

Flash spoons are a broader category yet, with the term “flash” being not only spoons that have a metallic or otherwise flashy appearance.  Flash, in this instance, can mean any spoon that attracts visually, more than it does from an audible or felt vibration perspective.  Some of them tumble, many dance and otherwise flutter seductively when dropped on a free line.  They’re definitely a more subdued approach compared to the rattle spoons we all know and love, but can really be an upgrade in certain scenarios.  Color can really play a huge role with this spoon type, given that they’re purely based on the visual, so it’s hard to cross this type of spoon off the list without trying a few standards from the fishing color wheel.

Rattle and Roll

For this angler, and so many others, it’s hard to imagine starting out with anything but a rattle bait of some kind.  The advantages are numerous.  Fishing vertically, and stationary, you do need to rely on drawing power to get fish from further distances to observe and eventually eat your offering.  Rattle spoons so effectively do this, especially in murky water, that they’re the perfect starting bait.  Speaking of bait, their appeal can be upgraded by tipping with a minnow head, plastic flicker tail, or both, creating yet another reason to use them first.

I’m of the opinion that it’s best to utilize rattles until the fish tell you not to, for a number of reasons.  I mentioned the calling power of these baits, but also, it’s worth mentioning that the fish that are willing to respond to rattles, are often fish in a more positive mode for feeding from the start.  I’d always rather drop an offering in front of an active fish than a neutral or negative one, and rattles have the power to attract those with an interest from the get-go. 

Additionally, rattle spoons offer a more hybrid approach to noise than the louder lipless style rattle baits that have become popular for ice fishing.  Truth be told, I’m a huge fan of those too, but realize that even fish which may be interested in these baits from afar, don’t always strike them when up close and personal.  That’s where the rattling spoons shine however, as they tend to be a bit more snack-sized, and also subdued in comparison when it comes to their ability to fish “small.”  Tiny wiggles and shakes can be imparted to these baits to fish them in a more finesse way than your average lipless crank, giving you the option to rip hard when attracting from distance, then slow down to tease fish into finally eating.

Flash On

Simple flash spoons have been tearing it up from the beginning of time, so for many anglers, it’s a case of “why fix what isn’t broke?”  Especially in clear water, there’s a distinct advantage to fishing a flash spoon, which has the ability to be even more finesse than the tiniest of rattle spoons fished slowly.  Usually this is because they’re of a thinner metal, rather than lead-based construction, but also because of the action imparted in the baits when free-dropped. 

They’re the more boring, yet often effective, brethren to the rattle spoon in that they aren’t as multi-faceted in their approach.  Again however, they’re deadly effective, especially when fished a bit higher in the water column.  For clear water anglers, it’s important to note that fish at distance can see higher baits better, simply on account of the angle they’re looking at, along with the fact that they can more easily silhouette it against the light and/or bottom of the ice. 

Fans of these kinds of spoons often report less fish marked on electronics, but tend to convert more of these marked fish into biters.  That can make all the difference, though it can be frustrating, especially in shallow water where it can be hard to mark fish to begin with.  Whether walleyes or perch, it’s addicting to see fish on the screen responding to your rattle bait, but when fish aren’t roaming far and wide to inspect baits, it’s often the simple approach of the flash spoons that can get it done.  Again, less fish marked, more fish caught, I’ve seen it happen too many times to call it a fluke.

Parting Shots

In my mind, the decision is an easy one given enough anglers in a group working together.  Let the fish decide.  I’ll still typically start with a rattle spoon, even in clear water, though I’m more ready to change it out if fish are being caught via other presentations.  The clearer the water also means however, that colors can make a big difference, as well as small details like swivels, line thickness, and the way you work a bait.  Those confounding variables can make it hard to sort through the mess, given a certain angler with a certain setup fishing a certain jigging cadence can catch all the fish regardless of which spoon is being used.

That said, all else being equal, make sure you’ve got someone in the group leaning hard in each direction, and dedicated to the bit.  Make them fish through the first few pickups and bites, even if they’re not the ones getting them.  As a general rule, panfish tend to prefer flash spoons in many scenarios, but rattle spoons can be effective when fish are aggressive.  There are also a handful of rattle spoons that allow crappie anglers especially to cover deeper water, more easily, simply on account of the weight of the spoon.  It’s a big topic, and breaking it down is a day-by-day procedure, but the rattle vs. flash divergence is a good place to start sorting through the wills and wants of a fish’s preference for any given trip. 

When To Fish OUTSIDE the Wheelhouse

Fishing Outside the Wheelhouse

There’s much to be said for the comfort, convenience, and sheer enjoyment of fishing inside the wheelhouse.  You’ve invested a considerable sum of money, and likely the time it takes to trick it out.  Surely, it would be madness to embrace the idea of fishing outside the very shelter you worked to make comfortable inside.  That’s what I’m suggesting you should do.  From time to time anyway.  There’s a host of situations, and methods for getting the most from your wheelhouse experience, which revolves around a bit of outside time. 

Wheelhouse Setup

Quite often, I’m considering my options for outside fishing, as well as fishing inside the wheelhouse, before I ever lower it to the ice.  On classic structure situations, where I’m setup on top-of, or the edge of prime real estate, I’m typically expecting fish to push up and feed during low light hours.  In that scenario, I’m trying to park near a host of interesting structural features to cover a variety of ways.

Tip-ups, Finicky Foolers, or I-Fish Pro setups are great to monitor the tops of reefs, or nearby depths at the base of the break, provided you can set them within legal distance of your shelter and still cover the piece of structure you’re on.  As a deer hunting analogy, consider them a trail camera that gives you visual confirmation that the fish have arrived.  Use the extra lines available to you with additional anglers to cover shallower and deeper, then let the fish and their patterns dictate how you proceed.  There have been times where I’ve found an incredible all day bite and actually moved the Yetti because of all the fish I’m getting on tip-ups in a certain area.  Other times, I’ve been able to determine key time periods to hole-hop versus sticking it out in the shelter.

If I’m with a group of like minded anglers who wish to carve up some ice, I’ll often setup the wheelhouse on a small point, indentation, or other piece of structure along a breakline.  The idea is that I’m going to retreat back to the shelter again during low-light, but spend many of the waking hours in two groups.  One group works up the breakline, drilling holes and dunking baits, while the other group does the same in the other direction.  There are times when we find some pretty cool bites, simply by deploying two teams in both directions.  The wheelhouse then is more a base camp than it is a shelter, but should we locate a piece of unmapped structure, a pod of baitfish, or huge school, we’ve always got the option to move the wheelhouse. 

Portable Options

While it may sound crazy to let a perfectly good wheelhouse sit empty, at times, I’m employing a portable shelter option along with the wheelhouse to enjoy fishing in different ways.  It’s always nice to have a pop-up shelter along no matter where you’re fishing.  For the money, they present a great deal of fishable space, but also the opportunity to stow an insulated shelter with little space requirements.  They pack up quickly into a small bag, store well in the back of the truck, and serve as an outside outhouse should nature call and you don’t want to use the inside shelter. 

Quite often I’ll setup near a pair of rockpiles with the wheelhouse on one, and my boys in a portable nearby.  We keep tabs of fish location and spend time debating over who should move where.  It’s a fun process, and also keeps stir-crazy types out there and active.  The pop-ups are a bit simpler to move than even the hydraulic wheelhouses, so for small moves or fish that like to travel like perch, they can make a real difference when it’s extremely cold too. 

One option that’s really fun is to spend some time shallow in the small portable popups during the day, if fishing on a lake with reasonable clarity.  Finicky mid-day fish can be found on weed flats, but often it takes some visual confirmation to tease them properly.  That’s where it’s nice to close all the windows in the pop-up and look straight down the hole to see fish inhaling your bait.  It’s an addictive experience, and can again, break up the monotony of a multi-day trip with too many people in too small an area.  Again, the wheelhouse is the perfect base-camp to launch these adventures from, even if you don’t fish exclusively out of it. 

When to Fish Inside and Out

On the surface, it’s easy to say that you should fish low-light on the structure inside the wheelhouse, and hole hop around during the day.  Often, it’s a bit trickier than that depending on your setup.  I’m a firm believer of letting the fish tell me what to do, but it helps to know a bit about the fish before you commit to either location.  Walleyes will simply travel more and be active during these low-light hunting periods, so it’s best to be stationary in general.  Use the “lost in the wilderness” principle, where rather than searching for the search party, you stay hunkered down in a “findable” location instead of potentially wandering aimlessly away from fish that are also drifting away from you. 

Similarly speaking, it’s best to go find fish during less active periods and put more baits in front of more sets of eyes.  That’s easier said than done, and there are exceptions to that rule as well.  During low light scenarios, if you’re fishing a big piece of structure, fish might be coming up to feed all along and around it.  In the case of a lack of a clear spot from which they’ll approach, you can put more baits in front of more fish by doing some hole-hopping in an organized way.  Often that comes in the form of depth ranges and pre-drilled holes.  So often, early in the afternoon, fish start feeding near the base of a deep mud flat or reef, then work their way up incrementally over the last 30 minutes to two hours depending on the species.  In that case, you’re not trying to hole hop from deep to shallow, you’re trying to ride the wave of fish feeding up the break.  Careful observation of depths that held fish will keep you in the game here, and likely make fishing outside the house more productive.  That is, at least until fish are really flying around and in the depth range that the wheelhouse is setup on.

On cold and blustery days, it’s often to your benefit to stay in the wheelhouse, and not just for comfort.  I can think of many panfish bites, and quite a few walleye ones, where being able to precision place a bait in front of finicky fish, makes all the difference.  Dealing with elements like wind-blown line, frozen line, and snowed-in holes makes it difficult to detect a bite, let alone seal the deal and bring it topside.  Mid-winter begs for a rock-solid setup, where you can progress through lure types in a scientific kind of way.  Park on the fish and offer them a smorgasbord, but be ready to really entice and study for bites in a way that simply can’t be done as well in nasty weather. 

Too many anglers own a wheelhouse but don’t utilize it for the basecamp that it is, or consider what’s going on just a short distance around them.  Utilize additional tools like tip-ups, pop up hub shelters, and lightweight augers with electronics to hole hop when needed.  This swiss army knife approach to covering your bases makes you a more well-rounded angler, as well as a successful one.   

Ten Items to Make Any Wheelhouse More Fishable

You know the house, you’ve been in it.  The kind where there’s quite a few creature comforts, and the food/beverage game is on point, but the fishing part of the scenario is underwhelming.  Often, that has little to do with the house itself, and more a function of what’s in it to help assist with the general process.  Far be it from me to tell anyone what to include, especially if the focus is some simple family fun and “camping on ice” more-so than fishing on it.  Yet, there are a number of items that make for a “fishier” time in general.  Here’s a look at my top-ten list:

1.       The Right Rod Holders – The best rod holders are flexible, interchangeable, and handle a variety of rod types, lengths, and configurations.  I’m a fan of the Catch-Cover rod-holders for a few reasons.  I love the disks I can locate throughout the house, such that a single hole can have multiple disks and options for where that rod can be held.  I also like the ability of these holders to “give” in the sense that their rotating handle bows back to the fish so they feel little to no resistance.  Lastly, you’ve got to be able to simply pull the rods out with little effort or problems.  Full cork handles help in these scenarios, so it’s a function of rod design as well.

2.       Bump Board – Fish will be caught, at least that’s the theory.  Increasingly, we’re fishing waters that have special regulations and a good ruler is a key player here.  Stickers on the wall are “OK” but don’t give you as precise of a legal definition of the fish’s length.  Pinch the tail, bump the fish’s nose up against the right angle at front, and take note of their size.  Without it, or up against the wall, you’re looking at various renditions of an educated guess.

3.       On-Wall Storage – I’ve got two different systems for tackle management where it’s quickly and easily accessible.  One is a wall-mounted magnetic tackle storage system which is surprisingly helpful for a host of lures that I’m constantly changing through.  The other is simply screw-in hooks where they’re needed.  Those screw in hooks frequently hold rattle reel plain hooks, packages of bobbers, and sinker packs.  Anything I’m dropping frequently, I like to have handy at all times without digging through drawers or going into tackle boxes.  It makes me more efficient and saves time when re-rigging. 

4.       Good Rattle Reels – I’m a fan of the Rattlesnake Rattle Reels here, for the same reason I like their rod holders; they’re interchangeable.  Quickly and easily I can swap out a deadstick for a rattle reel and vice versa, then take that whole setup and apply it to the other end of the wheelhouse.  While I feel there are better true rattle reels on the market, this one wins because it works congruently with the rod holders to form the perfect whole-house solution.

5.       Dedicated Bait Cooler – When I say “dedicated” I mean either one that’s built-in to the fish house as they so often are these days, or, a separate cooler like this Engel that’s plugged into the wall and stored in a consistent location.  The more obsessed you are with keeping it in the same place, the easier it is to know where to get minnows each and every time you need one.  Usually, that’s where the live-bait is being fished, but there are times where it’s easier to store it on the other side of the house where you can stroll up, grab what you need, and get back to fishing.  You find the spot, just make sure you don’t have to hunt for your minnows.

6.       Wall-mounted Tool Holders – Again, fish, and even big fish will happen.  For those you wish, or are required to release, it’s best to get the hook out, snap a quick picture, and send them on their way.  I like this toolset because it can hold pliers, hemostat, hook cutters, and a scissors.  That’s pretty much the full set for almost all species I target in my Yetti. 

7.       Rod Storage – Buy a boat lately?  If you have, you’ll know that rod storage is a key mitigating factor to model selection, and even brand consideration.  I’m a huge fan of my LUND ProV’s 15-rod center rod-storage, and feel similarly about this rod rack in the fish-house.  I’m constantly switching setups to work lures properly, target specific species, and overall just get the most from the experience, so having rods where I need them is paramount to going through progressions of lures.  For me, the obvious place is the ceiling, because the rods aren’t in the way, and you can’t brush up against them no matter how hard you try. 

8.       Proper Hole Configurations – While you can’t change the hole layout of your wheelhouse now, you can learn to fish the ones you have better.  Two holes nearby each other in close proximity to good seating is a spot for an active jigging presentation next to a deadstick.  A hole off on its own and away from good seating is a logical rattle reel location, or spot for a lone deadstick.  Groupings of holes next together can be good spots to fish with company, but too close, and you’re likely to confuse your guests with all kinds of marks on each other’s sonar.  Trial and error gives you these examples to learn over time, but it’s never a bad idea to have folding chairs or other stowable seats, and try to fish your holes in different ways than you have previously.  Personally, I change the way we setup based on species, who and how many people are with, kids trip vs. serious fishing trip, etc.  The last thing you want to do is make your configuration work against you, like when you’ve got rattle reels down all around the food, and nothing but hungry kids darting in and out of there. 

9.       Outside Storage – Who knew the key to inside fishing has so much to do with outside?  Augers, hole covers, slush buckets, scoops, and the like can all go outside the shelter.  Store them in the bed of your truck if you have to, just do whatever it takes to keep them out of the shelter and making the fishing situation inside that much harder.  Anything that doesn’t damage from freezing or isn’t needed on-hand inside should be considered to be stored outside. 

10.   No – Hole – It’s pretty common for me to leave at least one hole in the shelter un-drilled.  I’ve always got the option to cut it later, but it can be really nice to mandate a hole in the center of the action for a no-fishing zone.  The reasons can be several, like when there’s too many in a cluster to begin with, or you want to store your caught fish there, or even open up freezer room but keep frozen goods more accessible.  It can be a place to dump slush without losing too much heat, or a spot to keep a hole cover on when kids need to make a midnight trip to the bathroom without falling in.  You pick the spot, but consider taking a hole or two out of commission rather than always drilling them all open. 

Ice Auger Options – Handheld or Powerhead?

  Whether at a sport show or in a retail store aisle, I hear the lament especially from older anglers, “It’s all so complicated now.”  One step removed from “what’ll they think of next,” it’s a comment of frustration in all the options out there now, in this instance, just to drill a hole in the ice.  Yet, we really do live in a golden age of technological advancement of the sport.  When I first started to hit the ice as a kid, gas-powered ice augers were just starting to hit the scene full force.  Within a few years, they were lighter than previous models, but still entirely made of steel and quite heavy compared to today’s options.

Lithium Advantage

Today, gas augers are the rare ones, with lightweight lithium ion options being the best choice for so many anglers across the ice belt.  There’s a lot to love here, with batteries that last for many dozens of holes, even in mid-late winter scenarios.  Add one more battery to the mix, and you’ve got an auger that will drill as many holes in the ice as you could fish in any one day.  Not to mention, they’re extremely lightweight compared to their gas-powered brethren.  Hole-hopping is easier now than it ever was before due almost entirely to the lithium revolution.

Of course, lithium extends to the cordless-drill powered pistol bits or light-weight flighting attached to them.  There’s a growing cadre of anglers that like the thought of being able to build a deck one weekend, and drill a hole in the ice with that same tool the following one.  As lithium has revolutionized the power tool trade, it has made its way into our flashers, making them extremely lightweight, long-lasting, and durable.  The same could be said for ice augers, whether settling on a lithium ion powerhead, or relying on the existing lithium-powered cordless drill you may already own.

To Pistol

I must admit, my first experience with a cordless-drill powered ice auger was, less than stellar.  I experienced the negatives of a product that wasn’t quite in full-swing with the technology pushing it.  My drill batteries didn’t last that long, and the flighting was steel, offering only a nominal decrease in weight overall.  Yet the maneuverability of the entire setup, along with the value brought by not having to purchase a separate power-source revealed some promise.

Now, most of those downsides have gone out the window.  The lithium battery technology works better in cold weather, and overall gets you more holes per charge.  Updated cutting systems give anglers options, as do the polycarbonate flighting systems that are a durable plastic-like material which stand up to all the abuse I can give them.  What’s more is that they’re literally half the weight or less than the lightest full powerhead options out there.  Shrink the diameter size of the flighting for say, panfish, and you’ve got something that’s even lighter still, not to mention extremely fast.  I can’t think of a better way to prowl for perch or bluegills in shallow water, or for roaming across open ice in warm weather. 

Of course, there are a few downsides, especially when trying to power through thick ice using bigger diameters (8” and above).  Cordless drills can fail over time, especially when they see hard use both on and off the ice.  Because of the torque generated, I’ve even see people break or sprain wrists by being unprepared for the sheer snap that can happen when blades bind or they bite some serious ice.  Still, for my money, and the value these options provide, they’re a cheap add-on to my gear that always hits the ice with me when chasing panfish.

To Powerhead

There’s just something to be said for the substantial feel and control you get when drilling a hole in the ice with a dedicated powerhead and flighting system.  I feel that I can drill more precisely, when the situation calls for it.  A prime example would be inside of a wheelhouse shelter, when you’re attempting to center the hole in the sleeve or catch-cover ring.  Variable speed drilling, new this year to certain manufacturer drills, really take that precision drilling step up a notch.  Feather the switch to start slow and get good bite into the ice, then press down fully to accelerate and push through.

Especially when I’m roaming the open ice for predator species, there’s no other auger I’d rather carry than a lithium-powered, dedicated ice drill.  Walleyes, lakers, or pike, it matters not.  8” or 10” diameter holes and their associated flighting are simply harder to turn around in a circle with drills that can be underpowered for their use.  A dedicated powerhead gives you optimum opportunity to grip the drill properly, control the drilling portion of the process, and really get through thick ice.

I’ll admit that this opinion is educated both by experience and preference, and to each their own.  Though lightweight flighting and drill combinations are cheaper and lighter overall, it’s amazing how lightweight flighting on dedicated lithium drill units have made their weight shrink as well.  For a few more lbs., I’ll carry the real thing when hitting bigger fish and drilling more holes.

What to Look For

I’m of the thought that unless you’re looking for a drill unit that can withstand lots of abuse in the bed of a bouncing truck, you’re going to enjoy the weight-savings of poly, lightweight flighting systems, whether powered by a drill or powerhead.  The next think to consider is cutting system, and I’m a fan of the newer hybrid style cut.  Shaver blades can be fast, especially when compared to chipper blades that crush the ice vs. cutting it.  Yet, I like the versatility of angled blades that don’t curve, as they’re harder to knock out of tune, and when paired with an appropriate powerhead, cut even faster than the shaver blade sytems of old.  

If your aim is to find the best dedicated powerhead and drill, pay careful attention to the design.  You’re looking for something that grips easily and comfortably, without having too wide a stance such that it fits in tight places.  A variable speed trigger is a truly premium option that makes everything easier when cutting inside a hard-house or portable.  You want a powerhead that’s sold with the option of one or two batteries, as there’s typically a price discount if you know you need two, when buying them all at once.

If looking for the best flighting for a cordless drill system, you’ll want something with a hexagonal main shaft.  That allows strength to the structure that the poly flighting attaches to, including the ice-cutting portion of the head that does the dirty work.  Strive for something that’s as light as possible, and consider a 6” hole for most of your panfish needs.  It’s amazing how even trophy panfish have very little problem fitting their way topside in 6” diameter ice holes. 

In the end, there’s only a small additional cost of ownership for having both, so you may consider choosing the dedicated powerhead system if you know you’re attached to those older ways of drilling.  Add the pistol later if you feel like you want something light and more portable.  Conversely, it can be nice to save some cash at the outset and see if the cordless drill option works well for you, but I caution against it if you’re drilling lots of holes for predators across the open ice.  Truth be told, it’s hard to make a bad choice out there, and you’ll be happy to have either once it’s time to hit the ice.

Which Ice Shelter? - To Hub or To Flip?

Portable ice shelters have revolutionized the way we fish.  From early models that served a singular purpose, often for only one angler, to larger models now that can be used for a host of extra purposes like ice camping or hunting, there’s a number of reasons to own one.  To the hardcore anglers, I like to hole-hop as well, but when wind or cold makes it difficult to effectively present a bait to fish awaiting below, there’s nothing like the convenience of a portable to remain both mobile and comfortably stationary.  Dropping tiny tungsten to panfish in less than 10 degrees or in winds greater than 10mph, makes owning a portable of any kind, worth the price of admission. 

If you’re in the market for a portable house, there’s but one big fork in the road.  You can go with a hub-style shelter, which is a heavy duty exterior, often insulated, draped over a collapsible framework of semi-flixible poles that meet in several “hubs” throughout.  Or, you can opt for the flip-style shelters, which incorporate a sled as their base, and have a series of hard-metal poles that retract or expand to form the framework of the shelter when packed or set-up.  Each have their upside when it comes to getting out on the ice, and sometimes it’s even nice to own both depending on what types of fishing you do.  Here’s a run-down of the best of each.

Hub-Style

Hubs have taken the icescape by storm, being once only hunting blinds and uncommon across frozen lakes, to literally the standard portable shelter for so many.  It’s for good reason too, as there’s a lot to love.  First and foremost, there’s really no other way to get as much warm, fishable space for the money as with a hub shelter, with even more large and expensive models being just over $500.  That translates into a relatively easy purchase to even non-serious ice anglers that just want to get the wind off their back. 

Of course, there’s also the mobility factor, especially if you hand-tow, or even take a truck out onto the ice.  Often, it’s easier to pull the hub bag out of the back of a truck and setup the shelter, or to drag small sled through snow that holds the lighter hub system.  Both use-cases are prime hub-territory for anyone looking to have a portable, yet stay nimble along the way.  There’s also the space factor.  A large hub can really hold the whole family, much better than a flip-style shelter, offering more places to put gear and ultimately keep people warm and fishing. 

That doesn’t mean that hubs are only “beginner” shelters either, as there are a host of features in todays hubs that make them as functional as they are fun.  Look for entryway doors that go all the way to the ice and prevent you from tripping as you enter or exit.  Also, look for custom storage solutions, like pockets for gear, rod-holders, and even a port for your propane hose to keep it out of the snowy mess.  Oversized carry bags to easily stow a frozen shelter, along with a secure ice anchoring system are all what you should expect for the upper-end hubs on the market. 

Flip-Style

Call these the originals on the marketplace, for a number of uses, they still represent the greatest advantage for ice anglers everywhere.  Almost without question, if your on-ice transport is via snowmobile or ATV, flip-style shelters are the clear choice.  With options to reduce sled-wear like hy-fax runners, along with rugged hitch-systems that are roto-molded into the sled frame, there is simply no more rigorous shelter that can stand up to the elements when towed across the open ice.           

Some of that sturdiness comes from a bit more weight, mostly on account of the sled.  The upside comes with secure storage that hauls everything in a self-contained unit, all the way out to the spot and back.  That leaves your travel vehicle free for other accessories or riders, and allows you to travel far more rapidly out onto the ice.  More-so than thinner sleds and even strapped down hub shelters, the flip-style house with its encompassing travel cover makes for easy transport.  For anglers fishing big water or remote areas, these systems are simply the way to go.  Not to mention, there’s a host of great features to these shelters too.

While originally, most flip-style shelters featured main front doors, most these days have that option plus a handy side door.  Heater goes on the ice in front of the anglers, and they can enter exit their individual side without fear of burning suits or shelter.  That’s a handy feature in and of itself.  Of course, accessories to store everything from batteries, to hang gloves to warm, and hammocks to house gear of all kinds are really extending their use.    

Which to Choose?

For so many anglers, it comes down to hand-tow or truck fishing (hub shelter) vs. ATV and snowmobile (flip-style) as they’re making their decisions.  Yet, there are a few more interesting use-cases that pop up.  Especially for hard-house owners, portable hub shelters are a great value to extend either fishable space when extra guest arrive, or use them as a portable pop-up bathroom.  Hubs can easily and cheaply add to the fun when you need an extra spot to clean fish, setup a food buffet, or even send the kids when they need a change of scenery. 

The same can be said for anglers who want all of their gear self-contained.  With the help of a buddy, a sled/shelter with propane, electronics, augers, rods, and tackle can be easily hoisted onto the ice, setup, and made ready to fish in mere minutes.  If you’ve got a truck or SUV with the space to hold this unit, many anglers prefer to drive up to the spot, plop down, and fish with no hassle of assembling or gathering a pile of items that were sloshing around in a sled.

Ultimately, it’s hard to make a wrong choice, and the used market is strong should you wish to explore other options later.  Consider the four “S”’s when purchasing any shelter, top to bottom.  Shell – premium fabric with high insulative capacity will keep you warmer and prevent condensation.  Structure – aluminum poles on the flip style sleds that are square prevent twisting and binding in heavy winds, while adding to the strength of the overall framework.  Seat – either a bench or bucket style seat that’s lightweight and comfortable will keep you fishing longer.  Sled – If you’re shopping flip-style, a roto-molded sled is the premium option for years of service and durability.