Why Your Next Ice Suit Should Float

My first ice trip to Lake Erie years back was a real eye-opener.  As masses of anglers converged on the shoreline west of Sandusky, Ohio, many looked the part of a search and rescue team more than fishermen.  Equipped with survival suits, as in the kind you’re used to seeing the Coast Guard wear, these hard-water fanatics looked as if they were very prepared to go in the drink.  As they deployed in the morning hours on top of ATVs, snowmobiles, and surprisingly air-boats, you could tell that for a good number of them, there was a clear concern and plan for thin ice and the safety precautions that go with it.

Fast forward to today, where a pair of brown work bibs have given way to specific ice apparel designed with anglers in mind.  Pockets are ergonomically located, big enough to hold small tackle-boxes, and vented to drain water in the event of a plunge through.  Knees and rear-end are padded with neoprene to allow anglers who kneel on the ice even more comfort.  Fabric is reflective so you may be seen on a dark night, and is ultra-durable for years and years of use.  Not to mention, several of today’s suits like Striker Ice Brands, have a flotation layer built-in. 

Thinking back to first ice forays, probably one of the most dangerous situations I’ve been in was Duluth Harbor on Lake Superior.  Ice cutters roll through to keep the harbor open for shipping, which results in a continual ebb and flow of ice-chunks, open water, and ultimately safe-ice that is broken and refrozen on a daily basis.  The scariest of propositions is “trap-door” ice, which is a large chunk that floats off the ice sheet, then wanders back and partially locks up.  Step on the end of one, and you drop below the waterline, as the other end of the chunk rotates back over the top of you, quite literally sealing your fate.

While heading out on the harbor in the pre-dawn darkness, an unseasonable rain left the ice jet-black, and wet, thus hiding any treacherous ice spots.  Everything looked the same.  Even with headlamps and ice chisels, one of our companions pushed ahead and literally walked right into open water; a six-foot gap where ice sheets had separated.  Grant was fortunate enough to kick a few times and pull himself up on the far sheet, only to have to jump back into the water to get back on the side we were on.  As he pushed off the far ice sheet with his heels, Grant dove forward, plunging the picks we threw him deep into the ice on our side of the crack.  Our day was done, as too much had already been risked, though with some flotation, I would’ve been much less concerned for our friend.   

From experience I can tell you that manufacturer claims stand up to actual lake and pool testing by many individuals, large and small.  Thankfully, I’ve not been one of them, though I’ve worn suits from at least three of the floating suit companies on the market.  The best part?  I didn’t know that what I was wearing had flotation.  The suit wore exactly as any ice-designed bibs and jacket I’ve worn before, all for about the same price as other suits in their class. 

Another benefit that’s often overlooked is during mid-winter, when ice conditions are usually at their most-safe.  The flotation that’s used in my Striker Predator Bibs and Jacket is exceptionally wind-proof, waterproof, and warm.  This is most readily apparent when temps and wind-chill are at their worst, or when riding to and from your destination on a snowmobile or ATV.  With all of the choices presented for today’s ice angler, and the improvements, comfort, and function built-in, there’s no good reason to not look at getting one which also floats if aiming to purchase new.

One thing to be clear on however, is that floating suits are not provided for the idea of pushing the boundaries of safe ice.  Rest assured, if a break-through occurs you’re covered, but these suits are for peace of mind, not careless or reckless abandonment of reason when it comes to staying on top of hard-water.  No ice is ever fully safe, and while the suit may float you, it can’t ensure you won’t hit your head or cut yourself on an auger blade going down.  These are real concerns that should still cause you to bear caution as the first line of defense against unsafe ice.  The hidden floating layer is simply in the background to bail you out should the unthinkable happen.  

Search Baits For Ice

Search Baits for Ice

Search baits like the Rapala Slab Rap are a staple in the author's approach at fishing fast first, with max attraction and vibration being key components to getting on fish fast. Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

The summer of 2000 was my formative attempt at higher education in the fishing world.  I was a natural resources tech and map-maker, working inside of Yellowstone National Park by day, and roaming the many nearby streams, rivers, lakes, and ponds by evening, both in search of trout and some extra bucks.  I took occasional overflow guide trips from a buddy who taught me most of what I know about the subject, and also helped shape some fish-finding strategies for wherever I’ve fished across the continent, ice or open water.  It was a #14 coachmen fly that convinced me on most days I could scour the local streams for a few takers, then examine stomach contents to unlock secrets to the bite.  As an attractor pattern, the Royal Coachmen was on many days the best fly, even when more natural offerings and a persistent hatch were present.  Though it was on trout streams throughout Wyoming and Montana, search baits and a specific method to using them would become forever woven into my fishing approaches across all waters.

I classify search baits loosely, but include any lure that dives quickly, gives off good vibration, and is visually appealing from distance.  The idea in using them is to cover water, both above ice and below.  While you’re drilling up new icy real-estate and covering ground, the bait is actively calling fish from far outside the cone-angle of your sonar, putting the offering in more fish’s faces which leads to more bites.  From the boat, your casts and retrieve constantly shop your jig to new fish.  On ice, drilling holes and fishing aggressively with search baits help you cover the same water.

Using flashy baits and fishing fast are no innovation among anglers, but on ice there seems to be a growing apathy towards the approach.  As drop-down wheelhouses become more prevalent across the ice-scape, and more comfortable shelters are the norm rather than the exception, so too goes our interest in drilling up the hard-water.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m a fan of both styles of fishing, but it seems that a generation bred on Dave Genz’s style of mobility has given way to some more stationary means of fishing.  As it turns out, no matter what method you prefer, search baits for ice make equal sense for the hole hopper or permanent ice dweller.

For ice, we’re lucky in that our environment is far more controlled.  There’s no motion or movement above ice in the form of a rocking boat or wavy surface, and fishing streams, rivers, or other moving waters is far less common.  In many states, we’re also lucky to be able to use multiple lines, such that search baits don’t actually need to catch the fish, they just need to draw them in.

For fishing inside hard-houses, I prefer an active set.  For all the rattle reels, deadsticks, or bobber rods, there’s usually at least one person trying to ring the dinner bell.  Rattling spoons, blade baits, lipless crankbaits with rattles, Jigging Raps, and even large spoons ripped aggressively are the order of the day.  Excite the bite by drawing in fish of all shapes and sizes, hoping that even if they’re not interested in what you’re jigging, they’ll eat one of the many other offerings throughout the house.

Start higher in the water column than you’d think, giving fish “room” to show up below the bait on your sonar.  If you jig that aggressively in the strike zone, you’ll see far fewer fish on-screen and catch even less.  Once the mere flicker of a mark indicates a fish towards the outside edge of your sonar’s cone angle, your whole approach changes from mass attraction to seductive appeal.  At this point, everything goes in slow-mo, as you try to make a non-finesse bait look more subtle than its design.  Keep others around you aware of what’s going on, provided they’re not going to drop the biggest bait they have and start yo-yo’ing themselves.  Fish that are unwilling to eat a single aggressive offering are typically looking for live-bait, a small jig and plastic combination, or some other smaller and less obtrusive bait.  Bombarding them with more vibration and flash is rarely the answer.   

Out on the open ice, you’re often forced to fish a single rod, and provided fish are active this is usually a good thing.  With first ice being a prime example, you want to cover ice assuming that there are active fish likely biting somewhere.  Whether it be panfish or walleyes, aggressive fish are very catchable with search baits, such that if you’re not seeing fish you need to be moving to find them.  If you’re seeing them and not catching, you may need to fish as a team, dropping other baits once you’ve attracted them to the area.  More often, you can stick with the same search bait but need to slow down your approach even further by pausing more frequently, slowly lifting, or rocking horizontal baits back and forth. 

A rocking motion, when possible for horizontal style lures, usually seals the deal as fish approach but are hesitant.  Think of the No. 2 pencil trick, where you hold it in the middle between thumb and forefinger, waving it up and down until it appears to be made of rubber.  It can be tricky to make your bait do that, but the top training tool available is most definitely a quality underwater camera.  Take some time this season to study different baits on camera, so that you can fish loud and fast to bring them in, then make the same bait come alive with the most enticing slow movements and bait-like twitches.  

Find Before You Fish

Photo Credit: Ben Brettingen - In-Depth Media

Gas augers like Strikemaster Solo cover water and chew ice, helping you find before you fish.

Mid-winter can be a depressing time for good ice to befall upon your favorite lake.  Oxygen levels are depleting, light penetration into depth is at an all new low, and fish have been chased from community holes into either buckets or new locales with less overhead racket.  Early ice action has given way to the doldrums, and good bites have gone sour in a hurry.  So have our attitudes.  As anglers, this time of year is one of stagnation.  Drive-able ice exists throughout much of the state, and we become anxious to plop down on spots that either once held fish, or hope to in the future, more in search of comfort than of good fishing.

Well let me be the first to tell you “Wake up and smell the auger exhaust!”  Stationary fishing in a permanent house or other shelter is a great way to enjoy time on the ice, but only AFTER you’ve found fish.  As February fish become more lethargic, pressured, and generally more difficult to catch, they often move less throughout the course of the day.  Translation: If you’re still, and they’re still, and you’re not parked on top of them, you probably won’t see them.  So goes the mid-winter irony of anglers that can range the open ice with few restraints, yet choose to be immobile amid continued poor fishing.  Ultimately, you’ll never find what you don’t look for, and it’s rare for already-exploited areas to consistently start producing again.

Enter the modern ice auger.  Gone are the days of 50lb. outboard-motor-lookalikes with an ice drill instead of a prop.  Today’s anglers have all kinds of lightweight options that make putting a hole through the ice quick, painless, and dare I say fun?  If inactive or one-spot-fishing is the poison, then drilling more holes is surely the antidote.  Working in teams, a few anglers with a lightweight auger or two can stack up the ice-shavings and learn a great deal in the process.  One on the auger, another with flasher in hand, drill and check holes across the lake.  Spare the fishing rods, at least at first.  Resist the temptation to spend too much time on any one hole, and set up shop if and only-if there are good numbers of fish in an area.

Guides like Tony Roach and Brad Hawthorne are carving up some serious ice each day, and most importantly, aren’t fishing as much as they’re finding.  Roach, who has arguably drilled more holes in the ice than anyone ever, spends day after day guiding and drilling across vast lakes like Mille Lacs and Winnie in search of nomadic schools of walleye and perch.  His approach is simple, more holes equals more fish, and the drilling does not stop unless the fishing is fantastic.  When the bite fades, the augers sing once again.  Brad Hawthorne’s ice odometer reads higher than almost anyone else on the planet, with him moving clients as often as a half-dozen or more times per day if needed to stay on fish.  Still, he can spend as much time looking for fish as he does actually fishing when out scouting for the next guide trip.

What does all this mean for you and the rest of the gamefish season?  For starters, it means breaking down new lakes or areas within a lake that have yet to see much pressure.  This process is more effective with friends, even multiple augers, and of course, a good plan.  Scour lake contours and find a section, chunk, or other digestible part of the map that you can tackle.  Call it ¼ mile squared or so.  Maybe it’s a small sub-basin, a point with some deep water off of it, or perhaps a flat with adjacent shallow to deep breaklines.  Whatever you choose, scatter holes every 20-30 yards or so at first, looking to cover as many varying lake depths, substrates, and pieces of structure possible within your search area.  Multiple anglers with flashers should follow, noting any holes with schools of fish, bait, or anything else of interest. 

Next, grab rods equipped with good search baits like rattling lipless crankbaits, flutter spoons, jigging raps, etc.  You’re thinking about baits that fish fast and can attract from distance either via vibration, color, or searching away from the center of the hole.  The goal here is to move fish, as much as it is to catch them.  The idea is to find concentrations of fish first, and then to focus on the catching of them, not the other way around as this part is important.  Once one person finds something of note, the entire group can come in, experiment with different presentations, and eventually crack the code.  Working together as a team, you’ll have a much better chance of getting on good groups of fish.  If you don’t run into any fish, you need to be committed to the drill-and-find process, continually searching, even if it means fishing very little for the day. 

After you’ve found fish, and maybe even caught a few, the key is to continually push.  Eventually, the bite will fade, which means that you need to start the process over again.  The temptation is to wait the fish out, or continue to think that they may swim back during the next low-light period.  This may be the case, but it’s often 4-6 hours later, such that chasing after the fish is usually a better strategy.  The good news is that once fish are found, moves do not need to be as large, and the distance between holes can shrink as well. 

Lastly, prepare yourself for bite windows during the low-light periods.  These can shrink to as short as 15 minutes during the heart of the winter season, such that you need to be in position, with all required tools at your immediate disposal when prime-time hits.  That witching-hour is about the only time you should be stationary.  How do you know where to be and when?  That’s where the hard-won experience from drilling holes all day comes from.  One day’s learning becomes the next day’s plan of action, and the surest way to catch fish in the future is to invest time in finding them today.   

Fish Early, Fish Safe

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Striker Ice Floating Predator Bibs and Jacket

Strikemaster Lazer Synthetic Hand Auger

First ice safety is something that comes up annually this time of year, and despite our best efforts as anglers, is highly ignored.  We’ve seen the graphics, know how thick the ice generally needs to be, and we understand the risks involved, but somehow these risks are weighed and the balance is deemed acceptable no matter how unsafe the ice actually is.  Most advice you’ll read on the subject involves some scary stories, and while I have been through the ice a few times, this article is about straight talk; what to look for and how to best take advantage of the early ice period.  There’s plenty of safe ways to enjoy first ice provided you observe the rules of the frozen water. 

1. Have a Plan - I once watched a man from shore on a barely frozen Lake Pepin, readily setting the hook on walleye in what seemed to be a regular fashion.  He was all alone, the month was December, and I was down there just to check on ice conditions.  Then, I noticed what appeared to be a rope, tied around his middle, leading the short distance back to shore and tied off to a less than stout Boxelder that was hanging over the ice.  Ice-check complete, as far as I was concerned.  If he felt the need to “tie-off,” I felt the need to give it some more time.  Still, his approach, at least in a modified fashion is something I’ll always remember and incorporate into my first ice planning.  Namely, it’s to have a plan in the first place.  He thought of the unthinkable, and planned for it, albeit poorly in my opinion.  Instead, I would think of a few valuable pieces of equipment first and foremost, in this order: ice spud or chisel, a throw rope, and ice picks.

2. Testing – All first ice should be chiseled, punched, or otherwise struck to see what it’s made of.  If you don’t have a chisel, then buy one, or wait until the wheelers and sleds are driving on before you dare walk out.  It’s that important.  Every step or two, swing a weighted and aggressive chisel downward.  For the first few steps off shore, chip a hole and observe general thickness.  Do this several times in the next few feet.  Last year we were filming in South Dakota under brutally cold conditions, with nearly 10 inches of the most beautiful black and clear ice you ever saw.  Our snowmobiles cruised over the frozen lake, drivers confident that we were as safe as could be, at least until we saw a small neck down.  It’s not news that inlets/outlets, channels, or even narrow spots in a lake can freeze at a much slower rate, especially with flow, but this was in a small slough with temps hovering around zero.  Still, one of our crew spotted what looked like cattails that were not snow-covered like the rest of the shore, and sure enough the chisel plunged straight through the 1” of ice there was at that location.  It wasn’t enough ice to support the weight of a single person, let alone several, with snowmobiles, and loads of equipment.  Too often, it’s under these conditions, with good ice in most places and poor ice only in some, that first-ice can be the most dangerous.

3. Dress For Success - These days, there’s no excuse not to have a great pair of floating bibs and jacket. No one plans to end up in the drink, but having a great suit that ergonomically stores your ice gear where you need it AND may save your life? Yes please.

4. Why a Rope? – If you do go in, having a throw rope handy not only helps to save you, it helps to keep others at a distance necessary to not go in themselves.  Too often, without a rope, even with a friend nearby, there’s no safe way for them to aid you.  Moreover, rope just isn’t on the gear checklist of most anglers, so when you need it, rarely is it among the rest of your things unless you plan for it. 

5. Picks When All Else Fails – If you don’t have a rope handy, or perhaps if the rope is too short or not throwable, ice picks are your last line of defense.  For thin first ice however, they’re far less effective, as typically the ice around you is easily breakable once there’s already a big hole in it.  Still, if they’re on you, they’ll be able to provide some grip, even if only temporary, to perhaps make your way closer to shore or up onto the ice.  Their value to me was demonstrated a few years ago when fishing Duluth Harbor with a few friends, early in the morning.  It was dark still when walking out, and though we had great ice thickness, warmer weather had left a slick layer of water over the ice, meaning your boot soles first hit water before they hit the ice below.  Now Duluth has a shipping channel, where ice-cutters are moving through in and out, at times breaking off big sheets of ice and creating big gaps or cracks between larger sheets.  Our headlamps were on, but my buddy walked right into open water, and luckily was able to use his walking momentum and the force of coming up and out of the water to project himself to the far ice sheet, nearly 6 feet away from us standing on the other side.  The distance was too great to jump back, so he took his picks, jumped and laid out for the sheet of ice we were on, while sinking them deep up to the pegs.  He was able to easily climb his way back up to where we were.  Without picks, on a water-covered sheet of ice, in the dark after getting soaked, I’m not sure we would’ve had a good means to fish him out or across. 

6. Slow Down – Use all of the tools at your disposal, and allow time to properly chisel and check each of your pathways.  First ice isn’t necessarily a place for children or those that are inexperienced.  It’s simply too easy to forget where you’re safe, and where you might not be.  Start small and fish an area awhile.  From experience, there’s a big difference from “making-ice” and “cracking-ice,” so go with your gut on that one, but at least think about it.  Ice can bow a great deal under your weight, and if it feels like it’s “giving,” it probably is.  Macho rants and broad declarations about fishing on 2”es or less are best left for the bar and not brought out onto the ice with you.  Take your time, heed the advice here, and fight the urge to be the very first person out there.  Be the safest, and live to fish another day.  

First Ice Primer - Gearing Up

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

The leaves have long since vacated their perch upon the trees of the Upper Midwest and have now found themselves matted on the forest floor. The roofs of houses begin donning a thin white coat every morning, and the defrost on your truck becomes more useful as each day passes. Most importantly, water temps fall closer to the magic number that ice-anglers know all too well.  However, before I sink new blades into fresh ice, there’s a method to my madness of pre-ice preparation.

What fall fishing I can do always has some portion of the trip dedicated to winter scouting. It starts with simply cruising across the lake with one-eye constantly on the graph, looking for tell-tale signs of differing bottom-hardness, contour changes, or un-marked structure.  That said, scanning structure is only part of the equation, as fish should be near or already on their first-ice locations.  Some of the best spots for ice-fishing I’ve found while in the boat, so don’t hesitate to drop a GPS waypoint on anything you see, and then circle back for further exploration.  It’s far easier to scan multiple locations and depths from open water than from ice with auger in-hand. 

One of the first things that gets attention is my shelter.  I do this earlier than most folks, like October early.  This gives me time to figure out what survived summer storage, and plan on replacement should mice or other critters have gotten into it.  The same holds true for my ice auger.  Again, I’ll need time to react should there be an issue. It’s a lot easier finding a place to get you a tuneup on your auger when there’s no ice on the lake, and everything from blades to engine oil is much easier to find early than late as well.  Now that we’re talking about the heavy equipment, it’s not a bad time to make sure your on-ice transportation be up to snuff as well.  Be it ATV, Snowmobile, or 4X4 truck, first ice is a bad time to be down your major method of transport.

From there, I open up my rod-boxes and dump out their contents.  Everything in there gets my attention next, as these items can have lead-times also.  I’m a big custom rods guy, and over the years have found them to specifically match presentations and fishing styles that fit me best.  I say this knowing that my preferred manufacturers of custom rods are anywhere from 2 – 4 weeks out, so you’d better get moving if you have a hole in your lineup, or select a model that’s more common.  Reels typically need little attention if you’ve invested in some quality ones, but it’s never a bad time to swap out or add to the fleet.  Line is something that I religiously change on at least a yearly basis however.  Small spools on 500 series reels are notorious for bringing out the worst in memory from your favorite line, and the longer it sits on that tiny spool, tightly coiled and ready to spring, the harder time you’re going to have feathering it down an ice-hole or detecting a strike.  Whatever your line of choice, do yourself a favor and spool up fresh each year.  The only caveat to that would be braid if you use it, as the advanced fibers in today’s woven lines tend to last a bit longer.     

Lastly, and this is the fun part, gather all of your ice tackle in a single location, spread them out on the floor and admire how large the pile has become.  Make sure to do so in the absence of your significant other, or you’ll likely be prevented from ever adding to it again.  Go through old baits, replace hooks as needed and more than anything, take good inventory on what needs re-stocking.  Be honest with yourself.  This is a difficult task.  Work new baits and lures into the rotation, but do so sparingly, and then, only in a few selected colors and sizes.  Instead, focus on your staples, and make sure you have plenty multiples of them.  The worst thing you can do when shopping for lures is to buy a smattering of one each in various lure types.  Instead, do your research and know your fishing style, then make educated and targeted purchases in multiples of the colors and sizes of baits you know you’ll make use of this winter.  While it can be more expensive, you’re far more likely to have what you need when using this system.  I’ve more recently been a fan of shopping for these items online, mostly because I can order these multiples with greater ease, and typically the stock is virtually limitless.  Still, whether online or in-store, supply can be sold thin if you wait too long.  This is especially true for brand new lures and baits that get a good amount of press.  Organize what you have into whatever system that works well for you, but put some thought into it.  If you’re a hard-house only guy, you probably won’t need a smattering of tiny tackleboxes, but if you’re an incessant hole-hopper, you might want to select some boxes that easily fit in a jacket pocket for better mobility. 

From here, you’re more prepared than the vast majority of your ice-fishing brethren, and for good reason, first ice can be the best fishing of the year.  So fill your deer tags, get some fresh winter blend fuel in that ice auger, and wait until mother nature gives us the icy layer we need to walk on water.